health
April 25, 2026
Eating through Colombia: The generational shift in traditional restaurants
By Álvaro Molina @molinacocinero For more than a quarter of a century, I decided that my notes in the press should be, above all, educational and constructive. ...
TL;DR
- The article critiques the modernization of traditional Colombian restaurants, noting a trend towards superficial changes like avant-garde plating over authentic flavor.
- Chef Molina expresses concern over the decline in the quality of basic dishes, particularly the arepa, which he considers a symbol of Paisa cuisine, now often replaced by factory-made versions.
- He argues that high prices are not justified by minimalist portions, poor quality ingredients, and the industrialization of food preparation, where speed often trumps taste.
- The author urges the new generation of chefs and restaurateurs to honor their heritage by preserving and creatively enhancing traditional flavors rather than abandoning them for international trends.
- Molina suggests that a focus on authentic Colombian ingredients and dishes could be a powerful differentiator and a strong foundation for the country's gastronomy.
- The article touches on the lack of government support for protecting national gastronomic heritage.